Simple, relevant facts about hair structure, hair products, preventive hair care, and how to create a hair profile.
A Little Hair Science
Hair grows out of the epidermis layer of the skin. The hair shaft emerges from this living tissue is actually a
strand of dead cells. These hair cells are fragile because unlike skin, hair is dead and cannot repair itself.
Hair Follicle - Buried deep in the scalp is a sac of skin tissue with a
bulb at the bottom. This matrix of tissues (hair root) contain tiny blood vessels that provide nutrients and water for
hair growth. Lubricated by the sebaceous glands, the hair shaft emerges from this cavity. Hair Shaft - The hair is primarily composed of dead cells that evolve into the protein keratin. These
proteins form a sturdy barrier that protects hair and resists damage.
Three Layers of the Shaft Structure
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Cuticle - The outermost layer of overlapping scales. It protects hair from the
environment. Similar to the way bark protects the tree and rubber cable insulates wiring. These scales have a healthy
sheen when they lie flat and appear dull when they are roughed up (damaged).
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Cortex - The center layer makes up most of the hair shaft. It determines the hair's
color, texture (curly or straight) and elasticity. The cortex is made up of keratin fibers and also contains melanin
(pigment) granules. It is also where the pigments and oil pockets contribute to the condition and sheen of hair fibers.
•
Medulla - This innermost strand of cells is found in some but not all large hair
follicles. Here strength and body are determined.
BUILD YOUR HAIR PROFILE
Create a record of the characteristics that best describe your natural hair shape, hair texture, hair color, hair
oiliness, and hair volume. These are genetic factors that cannot be permanently altered, but can be improved upon once
you've done your homework.
If you're serious about the health of your hair, try to work with and not against your Hair Profile. For example,
naturally curly hair is more beautiful, healthy, and easier to maintain than chemically straightened hair. Instead of
trying to be what you are not, concentrate on getting the proper hair cut, using the right styling techniques, hair
products, and hair accessories.
Hair Shape may be straight, wavy, curly, or kinky depending on the shape of the hair
shaft.
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Straight Hair is round and grow nearly perpendicular to the scalp. This means the hair
has no bend and lays flat against the head. Asian and Indian hair is thick and course, Scandinavian hair is thin and
fine, while those of mixed heritage may have medium hair with some texture.
•
Wavy Hair is shaped like a kidney and grow at a slight angle to the scalp. This means
the hair has an "S" shape and lays flat against the head. It may be thick and course, medium with texture, or
thin and fine. No matter how it is cut, wavy hair has very little bounce.
•
Curly Hair is oval and grows at a sharp angle to the scalp. This means the hair has a
loop shape that spirals away from the head. It is typically soft and fine with lots of bounce. The degree of curl can
range from big and loose to small and tight.
•
Kinky Hair is tightly coiled and stands away from the head. It may range from fine and
thin to wiry and course. The curl pattern may be a rounded or angular with varying degrees of kink or tightness. Kinky
hair is the most fragile of all hair types.
Hair Texture may be fine, medium, course, or wirydepending on the diameter of the
hair. Fine hair has the smallest circumference while course hair has the largest.
Hair Color may be naturally black, brown, red, blonde, or gray depending on the number of melanin
granules produced in the bulb of the cortex. Melanin is found in two forms. Eumelanin is the dark pigment found in black
and brown hair. Phaeomelanin is a lighter pigment found in red and blond hair. The hair may also contain both types of
pigment which accounts for the various shades of hair color. Gray hair has very little pigment and white hair has no
pigment at all.
Hair Oiliness is determined by hormones and the shape of the hair follicle. Straight hair offers
sebum from the sebaceous gland a direct path down the hair shaft so it is shinier, but also
prone to quicker oil buildup. Conversely, natural oils have a tortuous path down the shaft of a curly hair so it is less
shiny and drier. Straight hair is also shinier than curly hair because it reflects light better.
Hair Volume is determined by the following factors:
Remember that actual hair volume cannot be changed. Volumizers use water to plump the hair and then lock the moisture
in with a protective film. This makes the hair seem thicker and fuller.
Done? Read on and continue to take notes.
HAIR PRODUCTS - TRUTH IN ADVERTISING
You should know that manufacturers can legally claim that their hair products add volume, thickness, moisturize,
nourish, repair, or restructure, etc... without having to prove it. The only part of a hair product label that's
regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is the list of ingredients. Because hair fibers are dead tissue, all
hair fixes are only temporary and must be reapplied.
The debates rage on... what is the truth? For example, some consumers, salon professionals, and
dieticians advocate the use of hair vitamins, while other experts say their beneficial effects have yet to be proven.
Similar controversies surround the use of organic and natural hair care products, salon hair products, and hair
sunscreens.
Organic (Botanical, Herbal) Natural - No hair care product is
all-organic or all-natural. They all contain some very useful synthetic ingredients. The naturally derived plant
extracts may undergo processing that necessarily alters their composition. They typically contain extras like vitamins
and minerals. The term natural may be more indicative of what is left out: alcohol, artificial coloring, fragrance,
thickener, sodium chloride (salt), and harsh chemicals. Read the list of ingredients, the contents or absence of
ingredients vary.
Salon Hair Products - Good and bad hair products can be found in all price ranges and categories.
Salon brand shampoos may or may not be more concentrated and contain better, milder, nondrying ingredients.
Hair Sunscreens - The FDA does not permit hair products a SPF rating because sweat, water, brushing,
styling, and evaporation make it impossible to keep enough product on the hair to maintain protection. So plain and
simple - they don't work.
Toxicity - We're living in a toxic environment - breathing, eating, drinking, and wearing
chemicals that are either carcinogenic themselves or become harmful when they interact with other chemicals. So, as a
general rule, the less ingredients a hair care product contains the better!
Less is More - Most of the controversy is about the positive effects of this or that ingredient. In
this article we subscribe to the principle - first do no harm - or whenever possible do less harm! If you can't be
certain of the positives, try to avoid the negatives and make the most of what you do know. Although the benefits of
some ingredients may be debatable, we suggest that you keep an open mind - if hair vitamins, organic or natural hair
care products seem to work well for your hair then use them!
Try It - You Might Like It!
Don't be afraid to play and experiment with hair products you've qualified (pass the ingredients test) - mix it up.
Try different types and combinations of shampoos, conditioners, and styling products that suit your Hair Profile. It can
be a tricky balancing act, this ingredient verses that one - but your healthy hair will thank you.
HAIR PRODUCT INGREDIENTS
Feed Your Hair
Dietary Nutrition & Hydration - Healthy hair begins with a healthy diet that includes lots of
water. Hair basically requires the same overall nutrition that the body does: plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables,
grains and protein including lean meat and fish. Dietitians recommend foods high in biotin, including brown rice,
bulgur, brewer's yeast, soybeans, green peas, lentils, oats, sunflower seeds and nutritious nuts. Hair may benefit from
the natural chemicals in green tea while ginkgo biloba improves circulation to the scalp.
Hair Vitamins - A healthy diet is a good start but many people still lack the optimum dosage of
essential ingredients that dietary supplements provide - vitamins, minerals, and amino acids do effect the health and
growth rate of hair. A dietary supplement created especially for hair and skin may be beneficial. Hair needs b-group
vitamins, amino acids and certain minerals for protein synthesis. Some hair vitamins don't include the amino acids so be
sure to compare and read labels.
Shampoos
Manufacturers are required by law to list the ingredients in their hair products. On the back panel the amounts are
listed in descending order by weight. The first ingredient listed on shampoo and condition bottles is water because it
is the base liquid that all other ingredients are mixed in.
Surfactants are the soapless cleansing and lathering agents found in all shampoos. Generally, but not always, the
higher the quality of surfactant used the more expensive the shampoo.
Avoid shampoos that list the following ingredients on their label: ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate,
sodium lauryl sulfate, propylene glycol and sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate. These are harsh industrial detergents used
in shampoos because they are cheap to produce. Instead, look for shampoos with gentler surfactants like sodium laureth
sulfate, tea lauryl sulfate, and tea laureth sulfate.
Dry hair and color-treated shampoo and conditioning formulas may contain moisturizing and softening emollients or
humectants like glycerin, silicone oils, and isopropyl myristate. Moisturizing products form a residual build-up
over time, which will weigh hair down and reduce sheen. To remedy this wash hair with a clarifying shampoo from time to
time.
Dry Hair Tip: Massaging the scalp stimulates the oil glands and encourages them to secrete sebum.
Organic and natural shampoos typically don't contain alcohol, artificial coloring, sodium chloride
or thickening agents. Look for ingredients like bee propolis, chitosan, hydrolyzed wheat protein, and herbal extracts.
From a purist point of view, organic and natural shampoos (with a ph balance of 4.5 to 5.5) are the best choice
because they are free of harsh chemicals. However shampoos that contain herbal ingredients may irritate sensitive skin.
Hair Care Tips: The natural protective oils that are essential to healthy hair get washed down the
drain when you shampoo every day. Washing every two or three days is not only better for hair, but also for styling.
Rinse your hair with cool water to close the cuticle for smoother, shinier looking hair. Wash hair with cool or lukewarm
water if your hair is naturally oily, but if your hair is dry use a warm water rinse to stimulate the production of
natural sebum.
Conditioners
Conditioning formulas help detangle, reduce static, soften, and restore moisture to the hair. Look for good
ingredients like benzalkonium chloride (anti-microbial agent), quaternary ammonium (a detangler and anti-static agent),
dimethicone, amino acids, collagen, panthenol, elastin and proteins.
Some conditioners contain a silicone compound that adheres to the frayed edges of the cuticle. Silicone helps to
temporarily smooth ragged, dry ridges and restore sheen. Dimethicone reduces the damaging effects of brushing, combing
and heat styling. Collagen, keratin, amino acids, and panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) are other additives that penetrate hair
follicles and help to restore and maintain hydration.
Leave-in hair conditioners are great for anyone with dry, damaged, or chemically processed hair.
They not only help detangle thick hair but also protect hair from heat styling.
Sixty minute deep conditioners can actually penetrate hair fibers and provide protection from
weathering and styling.
Hair conditioning sprays and lotions can give dry hair a boost between shampoos and before styling.
Repeated use of moisturizing conditioners and shampoos will cause excess residue to form. Once or twice a month use a
clarifying shampoo to remove the build-up.
Hair conditioners can weigh down fine, straight hair. Select conditioners made specifically for fine hair. It may be
more beneficial to apply conditioner to the hair ends only.
Organic and natural conditioners typically don't contain alcohol, artificial coloring, sodium
chloride or thickening agents. Look for ingredients like bee propolis, natural oils like hemp seed oil, jojoba oil, and
a variety of beneficial herbal extracts.
Hair Care Tip: Shampoo and conditioner (in particular) build up residue over time and leave hair
dull and heavy. It's best to use clarifying shampoos regularly or occasionally to cut through the muck. Also, whenever
possible, give hair a stress rest from hair conditioners, styling products, and heat appliances.
STRETCH YOUR HAIR CARE DOLLARS
If money is an issue, don't buy a $15 bottle of shampoo or conditioner. Search for a less expensive product with
similar ingredients. OR, go ahead and get the more expensive brand, but dilute it with one third or one half water
(bottled spring water) to make it last longer. This will work because expensive shampoos and conditioners are sometimes
more concentrated. Also, most people use too much shampoo and conditioner anyway, so cutting the formula with water will
prevent waste.
PREVENTION & DAMAGE CONTROL
Trim Hair Regularly
A consistent hair care regimen is the best way keep hair looking stylish and healthy. A fresh trim every 4-6 weeks
will not only keep your hairstyle looking new, it will also prevent split ends from moving up the length of the hair
shaft.
Friction and Weathering
Weathering - The natural progressive deterioration of hair follicles. Over time, everyday wear and
tear causes the scales of the hair cuticle to weaken and break.
Brushes, Curlers and Accessories - The use of brushes and combs, curlers, hair bands and barrettes
accelerate this process. Never use a bristle brush on wet hair. Instead, use a vented brush or large toothed comb with
rounded ends.
Backcombing - Backbrushing and backcombing and are particularly damaging because they pull and tear
at the scales of the cuticle in a direction opposite the lay pattern.
Scissors - Cutting hair with blunt or dull scissors creates a jagged edge across the cuticle,
roughing the scales and increasing the potential for fraying. Razor cutting produces long tapered hair edges that
weather sooner and fray more easily. Use a nutrition or treatment mask to strengthen and protect hair against friction
and weathering.
Hair Appliances & Styling Products
The frequent use of hair appliances softens the keratin of the hair, damaging cuticles and depriving hair of
moisture. Excessive temperatures can actually cause the water inside the hair to boil!
Styling products are designed to both style and protect hair from heat appliances. Always prep hair with styling
products before you apply heat.
Wet hair is fragile. After washing allow hair to air dry completely or at least partially before using a dryer. Keep
hair dryer settings low to medium; the highest setting will reach temperatures well above the boiling point. Don't
hold the dryer too close, maintain a 3-inch no blow zone and keep moving. Using a mild shampoo and moisturizing
conditioner will beneficially insulate and protect hair. Use ionic hair appliances to minimize damage and restore
hydration to the hair.
Blow drying curly hair causes frizz! It's best to allow hair to air dry. If you simply must blow dry your hair, keep
the setting low and use a diffuser attachment.
Chemical Processing
Dyes & Bleaches - These chemicals have to penetrate the cuticle and get into the cortex to
deliver their desired affect so some damage is inevitable. Chemicals scrape the scales of the hair cuticle, which can
result in chipping and weakening due to the breakdown of proteins. Use a color-safe moisturizing shampoo and
conditioner. Use products that protect the hair and provide deep treatment.
Perms, Waves & Straighteners - Chemical processing requires a fundamental understanding of
chemical interactions and their effect on hair. Perms, waves and straighteners break down the very chemical bonds that
give hair its natural structure. The hair is then forced into a new form and neutralized by permanently reforming those
chemical bonds. For best results, rely on a qualified technician to perform these procedures. Deep-condition hair every
other week, but watch out for build up. Very dry or damaged hair may need a leave-in conditioner. If frizz is a problem
try an anti-frizz serum.
Environmental Effects
Wind - Prolonged exposure to windy conditions dehydrates hair follicles and forces the cuticles to
rub against each other and even tangle. When the wind is strong wear a hat or scarf for protection. Do the same to
protect hair from ultraviolet rays and smog.
Sun - The sun's ultraviolet rays break down keratin protein in hair resulting in weaker, drier
hair. Occasional exposure to the sunlight is fairly safe for normal healthy hair. However, chemically processed hair is
more porous and particularly vulnerable to UV radiation. Over-exposure to the sun is not only harmful to skin but hair
as well. Wear a hat to protect hair during extended exposure.
Hard Water - When shampoos and soaps don't lather up, there may be a hard water problem. Water
becomes hard when there is a buildup of minerals such as calcium, magnesium and copper. The minerals cling to hair
leaving it dull, dry and gritty. These deposits are difficult to wash out. Aside from investing in a water softener,
professionals usually recommend a chelating shampoo, but it is a very harsh detergent. Robert Craig has developed a hard
water test kit and trio of shampoos that gently eliminate hard water deposits in the hair.
Pollutants - The EPA reports that the six major air pollutants of our modern era are: ozone, vehicle
exhaust, particulates, emission gases, lead and carbon monoxide... and that's just air! Anti-pollution skin care and
make-up products have been on the market now for years. However, the hair care industry has unfortunately lagged behind.
Free Radicals - When UV radiation and environmental pollutants combine they form nasty little
particles called free radicals. These molecules trigger a degenerative process that leaves hair dry and brittle with a
lack-luster appearance. Free radicals attack the internal structure of hair and destroy its protein. These highly
reactive molecules can damage healthy DNA and have been linked to changes that accompany aging, cancer, heart disease,
and stroke. Antioxidants are enzymes or molecules that counteract free radicals.
CONCLUSION
This has not been an all-out treatise on healthy hair care, but a simple primer to nudge you in the right direction.
Continue to search out and record hair care and styling tips that address the specific characteristics of your Hair
Profile.
Go on now... Be the Boss of Your Beautiful Hair!
Disclaimer: The information in this article is only a guide. BossHairstyles.com assumes no
responsibility or liability for the way in which this information is interpreted or used.
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